• A HOUSE OF PRESENCE

The Hierarchy of Scent

by Lisa Polite on February 17, 2026

Fragrance is defined by concentration.

The distinction between eau fraîche, eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and parfum is not cosmetic — it is structural. The concentration of aromatic compounds determines how a scent behaves, how it unfolds, and how it endures.

Understanding this hierarchy is not about preference.
It is about composition.

The Five Classifications of Fragrance

Eau Fraîche

The lightest concentration. Composed primarily of water with minimal aromatic content. Fleeting and immediate.

Eau de Cologne

Traditionally containing 2–4% aromatic compounds. Bright, volatile, and short-lived. Designed for refreshment rather than depth.

Eau de Toilette

Generally composed with 5–15% concentration. Diffusive and luminous. The top notes lead; projection is more pronounced than endurance.

Eau de Parfum

Typically formulated at 15–20%. More structured. The heart notes assert themselves as the fragrance settles into the skin.

Parfum / Extrait de Parfum

The highest concentration. Often 20% and above. Dense. Controlled. Deliberate. Designed to remain close to the skin while enduring for hours.

This is not a scale of quality.
It is a scale of intensity and architecture.

On Oil, Alcohol, and Structure

All fine fragrances are composed of aromatic compounds suspended in alcohol (and occasionally water). The proportion of aromatic material influences:

  • Depth

  • Longevity

  • Projection

  • Development across time

Higher concentration does not mean louder.
It often means more restrained — and more enduring.

An extrait does not announce itself.
It reveals itself.

On Duration

Concentration shapes duration, but it also shapes progression.

Lighter compositions emphasize top notes — the initial impression.
Higher concentrations allow heart and base notes to assert themselves with greater clarity and stability.

A fragrance with greater concentration unfolds slowly.
It evolves rather than dissipates.

Presence Over Volume

The choice between eau de toilette, eau de parfum, or extrait is not about price or occasion. It is about how one chooses to occupy space.

Diffusion or depth.
Projection or permanence.
Immediacy or endurance.

Each classification serves a different intention.

PHOENIX 22

PHOENIX 22 is composed as an extrait de parfum.

82% concentration.
Made in France.

It opens with grapefruit and saffron, moves through rose, patchouli, and cedarwood, and settles into vanilla, amber, and musc.

Built deliberately.
Worn with intention.

Final Note

To understand fragrance is to understand structure.

Concentration defines character.
Character defines presence.

And presence requires no explanation.

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